Tortellini

Smoked Salmon, Cream Cheese, Tomato Water

Tortellini is a labor of love. It’s the pasta of Emilia-Romagna, and most specifically Bologna and Modena. And the makers of these “little pies” are as respected of their craft in Italy as a master sushi chef in Japan. It’s a part of their religion. What goes into a tortellini, what broth it sits in, and what sauce tops it, varies from region to region, but it is almost always rooted in some Italian tradition that goes back generations. Something I know I just wouldn’t do justice if I attempted it.

This recipe takes all the key flavors of a good bagel and lox sandwich and turns it into a new rendition of tortellini en brodo. I grew up having to go to New York City for doctors and hospitals, and usually we wound up at a deli post-visit where I fell in love with so many foods, but smoked salmon is one that imprinted forever. So now, any time I land in New York, I rush to go and grab a bagel and lox from Russ & Daughters and with the first bite I immediately feel grounded and at home. It’s my Ratatouille moment. This pasta tries to recreate that feeling in an unexpected format.

Servings: 4 - Time: 8-12 hrs. tomato water extraction - 1.5 hrs. recipe - Difficulty: 3 - Mama Mia!

Ingredients & Mise en Place

16 oz. fresh pasta dough
4 oz. smoked salmon
4 oz. cream cheese
4 oz. ricotta cheese
1 egg
4 Roma tomatoes
3 grape tomatoes - sliced razor thin
1/2 red onion - diced fine
4 tbsp. capers
crème fraîche
fresh dill
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt

Note:
Tortellini is a pasta shape that takes years to master, so if yours come out a little imperfect that’s ok, mine aren’t perfect either, but the flavor will be there. And that’s ultimately what matters.

Directions

Tomato Water
Since this takes the longest, I recommend starting your tomato water in the morning on the day you want to make this recipe.

In a food processor, blend 4 Roma tomatoes until a fine purée. Set a fine mesh strainer or sieve over a bowl and pour the purée into the strainer. Place a towel over the strainer and place in the refrigerator for 8-12 hrs. Try to resist the urge to stir, agitate or press on the tomatoes, this will lead to a cloudier outcome.

Filling
In the food processor add smoked salmon, cream cheese, and ricotta and blend until somewhere between chunky and smooth. Remove and incorporate egg and dill (to taste) - you might want to use your hands for this. Add all of the mixture to a piping bag and place in the fridge until ready to use.

Pasta
I still haven’t found a recipe I love yet for pasta dough, but when I do I’ll be sharing it. I don’t want to share something I’m not personally in love with, so until then, use Google, use your nona, use whatever want to create or even buy 16 oz. of fresh pasta dough.

On a well floured wooden surface, begin to roll out your dough by hand or by machine. Work it until it’s thin enough that you can see your fingers behind the dough when you lift the pasta. From there, cut 2” x 2” squares and pipe a large marble of filling in the middle of each square.

To form the pasta, join two of the opposite corners and press to create a triangle. Next, join the two furthest corners and press together. Repeat this step until all the squares have been converted into tortellini.

If the pasta starts sticking to your hands or other surfaces, dust with a little more flour.

Bringing it Together
Bring a pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Meanwhile in a sauté pan over medium-high heat add 1 tbsp. of olive oil and the capers. Fry until crispy and set aside.

Add the pasta to the water, when they have completely cooked they will rise to the top which will take about 1-2 minutes. Drain the pasta and begin plating.

Add about 1/8 inch tomato water to the bottom of a bowl, then add 1/4 of the pasta - roughly 12 tortellini. Top with capers, onions, sliced tomatoes, and small dollops of crème fraîche and dill.